To Bail Or Not To Bail


I still remember being 12 or 13 and paddling out at Kuta Beach(Bali) with my mate Jesse Webb, we were side-by-side when this massive mountain of a wave(ok it was probably only bout 3ft) started feathering ahead of us, you could just tell this thing was going to heave and land square on our heads. We just looked at each other with freaked faces, Jesse paddled as fast as he could forward to try duckdive under the lip, I put my tail between my legs and paddled as fast as I could for the shore. It didn’t matter, both our decisions produced the same result– Totally smoked! In later years I can remember duckdives that havent gone so well, you know the ones, you are unsure whether to bail or try duckdive it, You decide to duckdive, usually this option results in the feeling a Mac truck has just run you over as your board is ripped from your hands and you are put through the rinse cycle before said board tonks you in the head underwater. Yeah, shoulda gone the dive under option…

 Here are a few waves from Mongrel Bay…. What do you reckon duckdive? or bail and dive deep?

duckdive-4092

duckdive-4578

duckdive-4606

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About DiggaSURF

Writer and photographer
This entry was posted in Digga's Voice- Images and Ramblings. Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to To Bail Or Not To Bail

  1. napalmninja says:

    sit on the beach and whimper quietly under a tree for 30minutes after trying to ride the foam ball on that first shot…..DAM… go the mongrel! there will never.. ever, be a mob at mongrel bay!

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